The First Rolex Cloisonné Dial Watch from 1949

By | May 30, 2024

In June of 2014, Christie’s Auction house made waves in the horological world by auctioning a truly remarkable watch – a unique 18KT gold Automatic Rolex replica watch adorned with a sweep center seconds hand and adorned with star numerals on a stunning Cloisonné dial. This auction marked the sale of what is believed to be the inaugural Rolex ever outfitted with a Cloisonné dial, fetching an astounding record-setting price of $1,242,040!

The Cloisonné dial itself is a masterpiece, depicting a whale and a frigate navigating through tumultuous seas, capturing both the beauty and the power of the natural world. Adding to its allure, the watch features an applied Rolex cornet at the 6 o’clock position, further emphasizing its significance in the Rolex lineage.

According to Christie’s Lot Notes, this Rolex cloisonné enamel wristwatch is undeniably one of the most pivotal creations in Rolex’s history. Last seen at auction in 2005, this watch had been carefully safeguarded away from public view, its case gradually oxidizing during its eight-year tenure in a safety deposit box. However, recent scholarship developments shed new light on its importance.

Today, this wristwatch is not only recognized as the earliest known Rolex cloisonné enamel watch, crafted in 1949, but also stands as the sole example fitted with the coveted star-set numerals. Every facet of this watch exudes rarity and craftsmanship. Its 36mm case size is imposing, while the full cloisonné enamel scene covering the entire dial sets it apart from its contemporaries. The Rolex crown positioned at 6 o’clock is original to the piece, meticulously crafted in 1949. The Rolex signature, beneath the enamel glazing, adds a touch of authenticity, while the dial itself, created by Stern Freres, bears testament to the meticulous attention to detail.

The hand-cut star numerals, model number 453 by Stern Freres, along with the applied faceted baton numerals at the quarters, model number 276, and the replica Rolex crown, model number 49, further underscore the collaboration between Rolex and Stern in producing this horological marvel.

The exquisite cloisonné enamel dial, attributed to Marguerite Koch, a renowned artist from Geneva, showcases her mastery in creating intricate dials, evident in her works for esteemed brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The colors and miniature details, visible under scrutiny, evoke a sense of wonder and admiration.

Consigned by a distinguished private collector, this watch stands in impeccable condition – a true testament to its rarity and significance in the “Trophy Market.” With no signs of restoration on either side of the dial and an untouched case, this watch represents an exceptional opportunity to acquire a piece of horological history that will be cherished for generations to come.