Rolex is undeniably the most influential and recognizable watchmaker in the world. When the brand moves, the watch industry follows. However, attempting to rank the top Rolex models might seem a daunting task. How can you pick the best from a brand that has crafted countless legendary watches over its 119-year history?
Upon closer inspection, though, it becomes clear that despite Rolex’s dominance among watch collectors, the brand has actually kept its model lineup relatively streamlined. Instead of churning out a constant stream of new releases, Rolex has focused on perfecting its iconic models, tweaking and refining them over time. Take, for example, the latest Daytona, which features slightly thinner rings around the subdials, or the Submariner, which is only a millimeter larger than its predecessor.
Rolex’s strength lies in how its models build upon one another. As James Lamdin, owner of Analog:Shift, a New York-based vintage watch shop, explains, “Everything they do and have done informs each other.” The replica Rolex Oyster Perpetual’s waterproof technology became the foundation for the Submariner, which evolved into the Sea Dweller, and eventually led to the creation of the Yacht-Master – essentially a dive watch made for leisurely days at sea. Even models that are discontinued leave their mark on Rolex’s DNA, like the King Midas, which helped the brand embrace a more creative, less formal design approach.
Methodology for Ranking the Best Rolex Models
To compile this ranking, I considered several factors: the historical significance of each model, its impact on Rolex’s design language, and its lasting popularity among collectors and in popular culture. I also looked at how each watch contributed to the technological and aesthetic evolution of the brand. These criteria helped shape the rankings.
- Pearlmaster
While the Pearlmaster may not be the first name that comes to mind when you think of Rolex, it represents a fascinating chapter in the brand’s history. Released in 1992, the Pearlmaster epitomized opulence with its diamond-encrusted, precious metal design – a stark contrast to the sporty tool watches Rolex is more known for. This was Rolex’s most luxurious offering, a model crafted for those who wanted to flaunt their wealth, not just tell the time.
However, by 2022, the Pearlmaster was discontinued after three decades of production. While initially groundbreaking, its lavish aesthetic gradually became less distinctive, with Rolex’s other models – such as the Day-Date and Datejust – adopting diamond settings, diminishing the Pearlmaster’s uniqueness.
- Sky-Dweller
Introduced in 2012, the Sky-Dweller stands out as a modern travel watch. Designed for the jet-setting elite, the Sky-Dweller offers sophisticated complications that appeal to those with frequent flyer miles. In contrast to the more rugged GMT-Master, the Sky-Dweller has a flashier 42mm case, typically crafted in gold, making it a symbol of luxury and function.
With its annual calendar and dual time zone display, the Sky-Dweller caters to the high-end traveler – blending Rolex’s renowned precision with an undeniable sense of style. Despite being relatively new, this model has already earned its place as one of Rolex’s most forward-thinking designs.
- Prince
Perhaps the most unconventional Rolex model, the Prince, debuted in 1928. A rectangular, tank-style watch, it was initially designed for formal occasions but gained popularity among doctors. The reason? Its small seconds dial, which allowed medical professionals to measure a patient’s heartbeat accurately – a neat, practical touch for a brand synonymous with precision timekeeping.
Although the original Prince was discontinued in 1940, Rolex revived the model in 2005 under the Cellini collection before discontinuing it again in 2015. The Prince remains a fascinating example of Rolex’s attempt to combine elegant design with functional innovation.
- Turn-O-Graph
1953 was a pivotal year for Rolex, marking the release of iconic models like the Explorer and Submariner. But the Turn-O-Graph, while not as well-known, holds significant importance in Rolex’s history. It was the first Rolex model to feature a rotating bezel, a design element that would become a staple in both the GMT-Master and Submariner lines.
Despite its technical innovation, the Turn-O-Graph never achieved the same legendary status as its counterparts. It was soon incorporated into the Datejust family and was eventually discontinued in 2011.
- Oysterquartz
In the 1970s, during the height of the quartz crisis, Rolex embraced quartz technology with the Oysterquartz. Developed over five years, it represented a bold departure from Rolex’s traditional mechanical movements. The watch featured a sleek, integrated case design, reminiscent of the era’s other iconic pieces like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus.
The Oysterquartz stayed in production for a surprising 25 years, making it a significant, albeit niche, part of Rolex’s legacy. Though it was initially met with skepticism, it eventually garnered appreciation for its innovation and distinctive 70s style.
- Rolex Perpetual 1908
In 2023, the Perpetual 1908 filled a void left by the discontinuation of the Cellini, a model that had represented Rolex’s foray into dress watches. The Perpetual 1908, launched to wide acclaim, marks Rolex’s latest attempt to produce a dress watch that stands up to its iconic sport models. With a refined design and a new movement, the Perpetual 1908 is a statement of Rolex’s ongoing evolution.
This model, though still young, represents Rolex’s continued focus on precision and elegance, with versions like the 2024 ice-blue dial demonstrating the brand’s commitment to innovation in the world of luxury watches.
- Cellini
The Cellini collection, introduced in 1968, was Rolex’s first real attempt to diversify its offerings beyond sport watches. It aimed to capture the attention of those who sought a more refined, elegant watch for formal occasions. The Cellini was a pivotal model for Rolex, helping shift its brand identity from purely functional tool watches to luxury objects.
Rolex’s move into the luxury space was epitomized by the Cellini, which also played a role in shaping the brand’s modern persona. Though it was discontinued in 2022, the Cellini line remains an important chapter in Rolex’s history, showcasing the brand’s ability to evolve without abandoning its core values.
- Yacht-Master and Yacht-Master II
Many Rolex models perfectly capture the era in which they were created. The GMT-Master, for example, emerged in the 1950s, right as air travel began to take off. The Yacht-Master, on the other hand, channels the extravagant flair of the 1990s. “How do you take a sports watch and make it appeal to a Monaco yacht club scene?” says James Lamdin, distilling the Yacht-Master’s appeal. Surprisingly, experts ranked the Yacht-Master higher than expected.
Launched in 1992, the Yacht-Master introduced an unexpected blend of diver-inspired functionality and luxury design, featuring gold cases and mother-of-pearl dials. Its lavish touches turned it into a go-to for collectors drawn to opulent Rolexes. The Yacht-Master II, debuted in 2007, raised the stakes with a regatta timer – a practical complication for yacht racers. Rolex continues to refine this model, as evidenced by the release of a titanium version after pro sailor Ben Ainslie wore a prototype in 2021.
- Air-King
Originally created in 1945 to honor the Royal Air Force pilots of the Battle of Britain, the Air-King stands as the last remaining model from a series of aviation-themed watches, including the Air-Lion, Air-Giant, and Air-Tiger. The Air-King has since evolved into a historical entry point for Rolex enthusiasts. “It’s a model that has been in continuous production and remains a popular starting point for new collectors,” says Adam Golden, founder of Menta Watches. Its understated design and signature green accents (on certain models) give wearers a taste of Rolex luxury at an approachable price point. - Sea-Dweller
While the Submariner is Rolex’s iconic dive watch, the Sea-Dweller is the diver’s ultimate tool watch. As Adam Golden puts it, the Sea-Dweller is for those who want to take their diving – or, in the case of filmmaker James Cameron, their submersible exploration – to the extreme. The Sea-Dweller embodies the spirit of Rolex’s legacy: replica watches tied to historic achievements, such as the Mariana Trench dive. The Sea-Dweller builds on the Submariner’s foundation, pushing the limits of depth, making it a natural choice for serious adventurers.
The Sea-Dweller’s role in Rolex’s design philosophy is clear: it epitomizes the brand’s “go deep, not wide” approach. Over decades, Rolex has honed this model to perfection, creating a tool watch that’s just as dependable in the depths of the ocean as it is on the wrist of an iconic adventurer.
- Milgauss
The Milgauss, initially launched in 1956, was designed specifically for scientists working in environments with high magnetic fields. Its name, derived from the French word for “thousand gauss” (a unit of magnetic flux), reflects its resistance to magnetic interference. Though it was discontinued in 2023, its legacy endures. The Milgauss is a fascinating example of Rolex’s ability to create watches for niche but important professional needs. It’s not just a watch – it’s a technical achievement.
The design is polarizing, too, with its quirky lightning-bolt seconds hand and the signature honeycomb-patterned dials on vintage models. Though antimagnetic technology is now ubiquitous in modern watches, the Milgauss remains a beloved piece for collectors who appreciate both its bold design and its place in Rolex’s technological history.
- Oyster and Oyster Perpetual
Here, I’m talking about the Oyster Perpetual watch line – not the Rolex Oyster technology, which refers to the brand’s waterproof case design. The Oyster case, introduced in 1926, was a game-changer, and the Perpetual movement, launched in 1931, made Rolex synonymous with automatic precision. The combination of these features, first seen on a dial in 1945, is the backbone of every Rolex.
The modern Oyster Perpetual is one of replica Rolex’s most historically significant models, albeit lacking the cult following of the watches ranked higher on this list. What sets the OP apart is its playful side – Rolex uses this model to experiment with color and design. Recent OP releases have featured vibrant, ’70s-inspired dials, making it one of the most sought-after pieces among casual collectors. This line even includes rare and collectible references like the iconic ’50s Bubbleback, with its signature bulging caseback.
- Explorer and Explorer II
The original Explorer owes its legacy to the groundbreaking 1953 ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, both of whom wore Rolex Oyster Perpetuals during their historic climb. Rolex capitalized on this success by releasing the Explorer the same year, making it one of the brand’s most enduring models.
The Explorer’s understated design has remained virtually unchanged for over 70 years, making it one of the most versatile and reliable Rolex watches. While the Explorer II, released in 1971, may seem less essential – its polarizing orange 24-hour hand and focus on cave diving have made it a niche choice – it remains beloved by collectors for its rugged charm and versatility.
The Explorer II is a great example of how Rolex can turn even the most specific tool into a globally adored watch. As Lamdin puts it, “Rolex can make a watch for spelunking and still have it become a top-seller.”
- GMT-Master and GMT-Master II
The GMT-Master was created in the 1950s for Pan-Am pilots, who needed to track two time zones while flying across the globe. The watch’s original 24-hour hand was a game-changer, cementing the GMT-Master’s place in history as a crucial tool for commercial aviation.
The GMT-Master II, introduced in 1983, refined the original, allowing the hour hand to be adjusted independently – a more user-friendly design. While the GMT-Master is lauded for its historical significance, Lamdin sees the GMT-Master II as a more versatile piece. “It’s the perfect combination of function, design, and wearability,” he says. The GMT-Master’s cultural influence extends beyond aviation; its iconic bezels – like the ‘Pepsi’ (red and blue) and ‘Coke’ (black and red) – have become a hallmark of the Rolex brand.
- Day-Date
If this list were purely based on personal dreams, the Day-Date would top the chart. The Day-Date isn’t just a watch; it’s a statement. Released in 1956, it was the first to display the full day of the week, a function that was previously unheard of in watchmaking.
The Day-Date is often referred to as the “President” fake watch due to its widespread association with political leaders, particularly U.S. presidents like Lyndon B. Johnson. Worn by icons like Warren Buffett and Tony Soprano, the Day-Date has become a symbol of success and accomplishment. Its platinum version, introduced in 2022, is a masterpiece of understated luxury – flashy yet practical. This is a watch that balances elegance with functionality, embodying everything that makes Rolex so compelling.
- Datejust
Introduced nearly 80 years ago, the Datejust remains a cornerstone of Rolex’s legacy. As the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date, the Datejust revolutionized the industry. Its signature Jubilee bracelet and the inclusion of a date complication set it apart from other watches of its time.
The Datejust is Rolex’s best-selling model, a quintessential piece that is accessible to a wide range of collectors. While its classic design might not turn heads the way some of the more exotic Rolex models do, its reliability and versatility are unparalleled. For many, the Datejust is the gateway to Rolex collecting, and its enduring popularity speaks to its timeless appeal.
- Cosmograph Daytona
The Daytona isn’t just Rolex’s most iconic chronograph; it’s arguably one of the most coveted watches in the world. Released in 1963, the Daytona quickly became synonymous with motorsport, particularly after actor Paul Newman wore one in the 1970s. The model is now so desirable that it has sparked an entire subculture of Rolex collectors.
While the Daytona is incredibly popular, its historical significance sets it apart. The Paul Newman Daytona, for instance, holds the record for the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction, fetching $17.8 million in 2017. It’s no surprise that the replica Daytona continues to be a benchmark for Rolex’s excellence in design and precision.
- Submariner
It’s no secret: the Submariner is the most iconic Rolex, and perhaps the most iconic watch, period. Launched in 1953, the Submariner changed the watch world forever. Its rugged, utilitarian design set the standard for modern dive watches and cemented Rolex’s reputation as a brand that blends functionality with style.
The Submariner is the quintessential Rolex, and for good reason. It’s a watch that transcends time, worn by everyone from adventurers to celebrities to everyday enthusiasts. Whether it’s a stainless-steel model, a military-issued version, or a lavish white-gold edition, there’s a Submariner for everyone. This is a watch that, over 70 years later, remains as relevant and revered as ever.